Waves at Celestino, Sinaloa

Celestino, Sinaloa

Celestino

Rising early, we were excited to drive to the small fishing village in Sinaloa that Dorian had twice visited. There’s a camp that boats surfers to a perfect nearby wave (guys like Dorian tend to flock to these spots.)

When arriving, we were greeted by the neighborhood with waves of hands and nods. A group of girls were giving themselves a dance class on a wooden porch. I of course danced along with them while driving by as they laughed with embarrassment (a characteristic I noticed many Mexican girls share.) Dorian pointed out the tiny doctor’s office where they treated him for a dog bite on a previous trip. As Dorian drove, I noticed that all the foliage was dead. It was much dryer than I anticipated. Down thebumpy dirt road we reached Danny’s house. Without the warmest welcome we talked a while and then unexpectedly bumped into Dorian’s long time surfboard shaper Mike Estrada. Dorian does not ride any other shapers boards. Well, we told him our story about driving to Costa Rica. He, being the nicest guy in the world, was very supportive. We finally had to go, our stomachs made that clear. We headed north to Celestino. There is a small hotel there that offers camping and it is a well known surf spot. I think it was called “Villas de Celestino” Arriving at the camp we had a very warm welcome. There were beautiful gardens surrounding the white buildings. Ivy however was not greeted with a very warm welcome The local female dog decided to bite her. Luckily, she didn’t break the skin and Ivy was okay. She learned quickly to be more cautious.

Three couples graciously invited us into their camp. Lorie and her husband had just drove to and from Panama and were now headed back to Washington where they lived. They informed us of what lies ahead at the stressful border crossings that we will soon reach.

Tiffany and Mike were gringos from Pescadaro, Baja Mexico. They knew some of our old friends Adam, Jimmy and Ken. They all had moved next door to them after living down the street from us in Newport. Tiffany was able to find the thorn way up in Ivy’s paw that she was still limping on. I was so thankful for her help and I learned quickly to get them out quicker before they get so deep. They had a dog named Bullet that Ivy quickly fell in love with. We were impressed with Ivy’s ability to adapt to her surroundings. She never napped with other dogs before. I think she looked to Bullet for protection from the black local dog that was still lingering.

I also enjoyed getting to know the other couple camped next to us. John and Toni were from San Diego and traveled a lot through Baja and Mainland with their two kids Leo and Teresa. Raising environmentalists as they schooled them on the road was a joy to see. They were amazing children who were free and comfortable in their lifestyle with nature. We loved this hotel/camp. I knew Dorian was happy when John would wake him up every morning inviting him on day trips in search of the best waves the coast had to offer. We would have to break down camp to drive to a different surf spot, so Dorian really appreciated it. They slept in tents so their truck was available. Although there are palapas to camp under at most parks, Northern Mexico I think is dry enough for tent camping.

Dorian, Ivy and I stayed at this camp for six nights and got comfortable. There were tons of flies that I battled and conquered. The hotel did have a pool, and there was tons of treasures on the beach. The waves were great and that was very important. I enjoyed meeting nice people and relaxed for a while. This was our first stop where we vacationed and I definitely took advantage of what the camp offered.

One day I asked the kids if they would like a dance class. In excitement they ran for permission from Toni. I put on my teacher face and gave them their first out of two dance classes under a nearby palapa. It was oddly familiar. Before we decided to move on I was lucky enough to see the scorpion that Toni found in the bathroom. She let it go in the field next door. She told her kids that the scorpion was on this earth for a reason.

When we finally decided to leave our temporary family I said goodbye to the kids and gave them both seashells that I had collected from the beach. We exchanged emails with our new friends and gave the women at the camp necklaces that I made during our stay from the shells at Celestino. They both appreciated the gift and wished us well on our journey. I thought to myself “what incredible people we encountered in Celestino, Sinaloa Mainland Mexico.

p.s.
We found out that the hotel we stayed in at Los Mochis was a “No Tell, Motel” and that most costumers often paid by the hour. We thought this was so funny because we didn’t mind the hotel that much. They were the nicest and cleanest motels in Mexico and many gringos stay there anyways despite the reason it

Mazatlan

Angelina's version

Leaving early, we were on a quest to find a guy named Danny’s house in Sinaloa. Although it was now thankfully humid the trees were all dead and many corn fields died out. We were unsure which kilometer sign to turn off on and decided to head further south to Mazatlan. We were both starving as we drove around looking for the RV park. To our surprise the original park that I had researched had closed down. Expecting was something big like the McDonalds, Home Depot or Sam’s Club that already existed down the street. We luckily found San Diego RV park across the road.

After meeting the unique permanent residents of the park, I decided to have a melt down from traveling long distances. Dorian made me some lunch and went to finally surf. I decided to leave our injured dog at camp and walked down to the surf to watch Dorian. The beach was beautiful. The ocean wasn’t as clear as San Carlos, but it did give off a pretty light green. Warm water filled the beaches, along with the hundreds of blue-bottle jellyfish. The locals introduced themselves to me while complimenting on Dorian’s surfing skills. We respectively hung out with them briefly and headed back to camp.

This beach city was overbuilt like the coast of southern California. The campground had a gorgeous tile gazebo and I jumped at the chance to dance for a while. It was nice to exercise. There were lots of mosquitoes and we were blocked from the breeze at the campground, so we called it a short night and passed out from a long day wondering what the daylight was going to bring us.

Los Mochis/Topolobampo

Los Mochis/Topolobampo

On the road again, we agree not to set our destination. Honestly there was no telling how far we could go. Somehow we ended up in Los Mochis. It’s a big city, although we still managed to draw attention to ourselves while driving downtown. We decided to drive to the ocean, but had no idea what we would find. We crossed marshes that bordered the road on either side as we admired the great sea life. Clams, fish, and vulture like birds flourished. Reaching Topolobampo we noticed that the ocean was as calm as a lake and that we were the only gringos around. This was a local hangout. There weren’t any hotels and we quickly decided to head back downtown after noticing Ivy limping in and out of the ocean.

After missing the only return ramp, Dorian and I decided to jump the center island on the main road to get back to our only hope for shelter. Luckily no policia were watching. We found a rather expensive hotel which was nice and clean so we decided to stay. We were puzzled by the private garages each room had. We were also confused by the fact that we weren’t given a room key and were not asked to fill out paperwork of any kind.

We were tired and enjoyed the AC the hotel provided and tried to find out what was wrong with our poor pups foot. Without a conclusion to Ivy’s injury, we went to sleep and dreamt of Dorian actually finding some waves to ride in the morning.

San Carlos, Sonora

San Carlos
As we get closer to the ocean , the hot wind begins to cool. Around the mountains and down the road I get my first glimpse of the beautiful clear ocean of San Carlos, Sonora. With excitement I assure Dorian that I have never seen water so beautiful. Ivy also got extremely anxious from the smells the ocean brought her as she dreamt of swimming and corn rolling herself in the sand. This was a familiar way of life. We were finally at the beach.
As we pulled up, Dorian was excited to try out his four wheel drive on the soft sand. Of course, mother nature had different plans. We got stuck in the sand, which was weird because the wheels wouldn’t even spin. We figure our rig is just to heavy with our life belongings and dreams. Immediately three guys started pushing us out. With luck they succeeded, and we later realized we made a special friend. We decided to keep El Grande Room (our rig) on the hard pack and set up camp.
We were greeted by an American and his son, Hunter who claimed lived down the road for the last ten years. We then cracked open beers and tried out the water. It was warm, clean, calm and glassy. A paradise for me to lay in. Later we got to thank the local Mexican, Max who initially helped us. We ended hanging out with him and his two friends all night. They were impressed with my Spanish and I too with their English. We all shared a twelve pack and practiced our languages. These locals were so nice and genuine. Some of the nicest people I have ever met. We were very lucky to share this time together.
The next day, as we woke our amigos pulled up on their quads and greeted us with tons of freshly caught jumbo shrimp and homemade delicious frijoles. They assured us that this was a gift and they continued on thee way to work where they rented their quads and fished for clams on the beach. I still feel blessed to have met them. The beach began to get very crowded on this Saturday so Dorian and I decided to take refuge from the fiesta at a RV park down the road. Overall, San Carlos is a beautiful and special place.

Nogales Border Crossing/Hermosillo

Angelina's Version
Crossing the border at Nogales was easy. In Mexico the border crossings use a traffic light to determine who they are going to search. We luckily passed the red light green light tests. It’s funny how the world can be so different one block away. I must say I appreciate the U.S. sewage systems. Driving through a shanty town, my nerves on edge I explain to Dorian who is calm from experience that I am unaware of what lies ahead. This is my first trip though Mainland, Mexico.
Thinking about California, I reminisce about my repetitive life. As blessed as I was to be working at my dream jobs for nearly nine years and enjoyed the greatest people in my life, I have now come to the realization that my unknown frustration was actually boredom from everything being so predictable.
Our drive through the northern part on Sonora, Mexico was actually greener than we imagined, although longer than we hoped. We didn’t make it as far as we planned the first night. Dorian and I were on a race to the ocean. The sun won and we found ourselves driving at night. Just what everyone told us not to do. We only drove half the distance than we ha planned. We set up camp in Hermosillo at an RV park where we enjoyed a quiet night.
As we woke, to our surprise four goats came trucking down the hillside. Ivy was amazed. I could see her little brain thinking “Wow, those are some unusual dogs.” She went to go check them out. Walking slowly with caution she decided to leave them in peace. I was happy that she showed respect for other creatures around. While making breakfast we were entertained by two lizards battling to death for our dishwater that was poured against a nearby tree. We later packed up and headed south to continue our race to the beach.

















Dorian's Version
Staring at the winding highway stretching through the Mountains of northern Sonora I feel like our trip has finally begun. After leaving our friends the Sebastians, who graciously welcomed us into their home in Tucson, we rushed for the Nogales border. We decided to enter Mexico using the commercial truck crossing where traffic would be light and the road to customs the shortest. After blazing through customs and registering our vehicle we found ourselves at the precipice of our first foreign land. Looking over at Angelina our eyes said what words could not, and I hit the gas in excitement.

Gripping the wheel I keep a sharp eye on the big rigs attempting to pass. Our recent transmission woes had taught me to appreciate a truck that actually runs, and keeping El Grande Rojo under 60 was one way to extend her life expectancy. As the trucks jet by I work hard to keep us from drifting into the steep ditch that lines the road’s edge. Glancing at the setting sun I see it is quickly approaching the horizon and that we are going to be forced to travel at night to reach Sonora RV Park. Driving after dark in Mexico can be a bit hazardous to your heath as the police constantly harass tourists under the cover of darkness. I take a deep breath and contemplate whether or not the fifty dollars stashed in the ash tray will be enough to bribe our way to saftey.

“What do the directions say again”, I ask Angelina as I stare into the dimly lit road signs. In a somewhat anxious voice she replies, “It just said after the toll look for the Sonora RV Park signs”. I immediately imagine ourselves driving deeper into the dead of night with nowhere to stay and police fast on our trail. At that moment Angelina shouts, “There it is”. The barely readable Sonora RV Park sign quickly calmed my nerves and soothed my rising blood pressure. “Thank God”, I sigh in relief.

Pulling into the park we see that the office had long since closed for the day so we take our pick of the several empty spots. We decided to pull along side a large RV that could help shield us from prying eyes. I kill the engine, open the door and get my first real glimpse of this amazing country. The stars fill the night sky as the moon outlines the adjacent hillside. The sounds of the night echo all around. “Wow”, I say to myself.

Waking in the morning I step outside the door and see all that the night had cast in darkness. Desert hillsides dotted with giant saguaros stretched into an ever expanding desert. The sun shines down with an amazing intensity as goats trickled down the adjacent hillside. I quickly make myself comfortable on our outdoor mat and begin some light morning exercise as Angelina starts cooking breakfast. Our dog Ivy also begins to enjoy her new home as she inspects the goats that just traversed the hillside. What a strange sight they must be to her.

Half way though breakfast we are treated to amazing gathering of insects and reptiles that are enjoying the small pool of water created by our use of the outdoor tap. Two lizards square off in a challenge for water hole supremacy. Angelina and I are both amazed as they these two reptilian champions enter into a struggle to the death. As the larger of the two goes for the throat of his challenger Angelina shouts, “Oh my God”! The two tumble about in rapid succession and quickly disappear into the brush. After several moments the thrashing of their struggle subsides and the smaller of the two emerges as the victor.

Pulling away from the RV park I notice a large amount of smoke rising from the hillside beyond the junkyard that borders our campsite. Turning onto the toll road I spot a wildfire eating its way through the dead roadside brush and consuming large trees higher up on the ridge line. Smoke passes into our truck cab causing my eyes to water as the sunlight fades in and out amongst passing black clouds. My mind ponders the possibilities if we had lingered for a few more minutes longer at the breakfast table. Accelerating down the road I watch as the fire disappears into my side view mirror. In 30 years I had never scene a wild fire up close.