Dorian and I entered Nicaragua in the middle of August. The weather was hot this month with light rains in the evenings. We drove south and stopped for a night in a town called Leon. This was a colonial style hip town with few tourists. Overall, this country is poor and the government is very corrupt. It is important to be aware of your surroundings. We tried our best to avoid the policia, but it's difficult when they spot El Grande Rojo with gringo license plates a kilometer away. We battled numerous bribes.
Nicaraguans are called Nicas. The Nica's I met were very hard working and humble. A skilled worker like a fishing boat captain earns seven dollars a day. I noticed that the people here are affected by the recent war. Although they were the poorest people we met on our journey, they were the kindest. I quickly became close with a family in Playa Gigante. Eva, Silvio, and their two year old son Dale David worked for a gringo we visited named Dale Dagger. I enjoyed helping Eva with David when she was working. They are a really honest hard working family.
Dorian emailed Dale Dagger before leaving the U.S. after reading his story online. Dale was ship wrecked in Playa Gigante, Nicaragua in the seventies. Since then he bought property there and built a surf lodge. There is now a small Nica community there. We showed up on his doorstep ready to camp. He told us that we could camp on his property for free. We took the opportunity for a few days until I just couldn't take it any longer. Remember I had been camping for six months straight. Imagine! Dorian worked out a deal with Dale and got us into the five star surf resort with hot water and a porcelain thrown. We met Tom who runs the surf lodge. He was now our new roommate. Tom is a free spirit from the mid west who moved here a couple years ago. He took us fishing almost everyday on Dale's hand made outrigger. We caught fish after fish.
The surf in Nicaragua is awesome. Dorian surfed thick turquoise blue barrels with a few guys out everyday in September. I will let the pictures speak for themselves. In October everything changed. This is the rainiest month of the year. The ocean turned muddy and the surf turned stormy. Troy and Lanae our friends from Newport Beach flew out to visit us. Were they in for a surprise.
They took their chances on the weather and went for the adventure. We were late picking them up at the airport due to five stops from the policia and getting lost. They were almost going to make alternative plans until we showed up. I didn't realize that Dorian and I were now accustomed to the heat and the madness. Poor Troy and Lanae got a taste of adventure when we tried to find our way back to Gigante. There isn't any street signs. A four hour drive at least that we failed to tell them about prior. It was steamy hot and the truck was packed.
Our friends and Dorian scored good waves the first few days. We were able to make one fishing trip in a panga, not the cool outrigger Dale constructed. I was able to point out my favorite place in Nicaragua to Lanae on the boat looking over the amazing coastline. The coast is filled with green forest/jungle and had seamed untouched. It is a natural land that is free and wild unlike Southern California. We were stoked when Troy caught a giant mackerel. Tom also caught a big Dorado. We cleaned and fried the fish for dinner. It was awesome.
The weather turned south shortly after our fishing expedition, and we grew weary from the rain. There isn't much to do in Gigante when it's pouring and the ocean is muddy. We spent the last few days of Troy and Lanae's visit playing cards and drinking lots of ice cold Tonas. We were sad to see them leave, and hope to see them again soon.
The next week we were flooded in. Rivers had formed where streams once existed, and quickly flooded the dirt roads. It was impassable. After three weeks solid of none stop rain the sun finally showed up. We decided to take advantage of this break in the weather and try to reach Rivas. We put El Grande Rojo to a true test when Dorian made the decision to drive up a slippery muddy embankment to avoid a sink hole that had formed in the road. This type of sink hole is caused by ground water, and is like quick sand. It will swallow a vehicle. I was standing along the road praying that Dorian and our portable house wouldn't slide off. He made it safely up the slippery mud embankment a road crew had constructed. After that things started to take a turn for the worse, literally. The car lost traction and started to drift off the embankment and towards the sink hole. This was very bad. Dorian quickly straightened out the wheel and gassed it hard. Once he had a little momentum he veered hard left and went straight into a barb wire fence. After bouncing off, and taking a little of the fence with him, he gassed it again uphill. When he was almost to the top, and safe, he got stuck. He quickly reversed hard then floored it off the embankment, around the sink hole, and to safety. It was some crazy stuff!
Our visas were up for the second time so we needed to cross the border again. The first time we crossed into Costa Rica a month earlier we bribed our way back into Nicaragua on the same day which is highly illegal. We were now ready to officially finish our journey and head to Playa Negra, Costa Rica. Our friend Tony Roberts, an accomplished photographer who we also met at Dale Dagger's surf lodge hooked us up with a friend who was possible going to rent us a house.
Overall, we love Nicaragua. The people are great and the land is beautiful. The wild life in Playa Gigante consists of hundreds of crabs that wander the beach, a myriad of hermit crabs, unfortunately ticks and mostly farm animals. The Nicas in this town raise and eat most of their own food. That includes the hanging of giant pigs and chickens. There are wild monkeys sometimes on the road but the most commonly seen one wears a leash and his held against his will. The mosquitoes can be difficult to deal with but the beauty of the beach makes up for it. We encourage everyone to visit Nicaragua just be careful and watch your belongings. It will be an adventure for sure if you let it.
